Steam punk pig

 

Tucked into suburban Bloomfield CT, part of the Mill Restaurant Group, lies the two-leveled gastro pub, Republic. The sign of the restaurant is a cartoon pig, drawn with gears, valves, and screws. Traversing the limited parking lot, the quaint patio dining area, the dull roar of the first level, I met my party on the second floor. Unfortunately, the happy hour menu was only served in the bar area, which could not accommodate the six of us, but we ordered the truffle parmesan popcorn anyway. The saltiness of the cheese bypassed the need for extra salt. The aroma of black truffles permeated the table as we all munched away. The aromatic oil would have lost its perfume had it been used to cook the corn, so the popcorn got a little soggy from the cheese and oil.

I ordered the Mexican Kiss cocktail, a combination of tequila, lime, bitters, and pomegranate syrup. It had the perfect combination of sweet and sour, perky enough to entice, but sweet enough to make it easy to drink. They also featured a summer ale on tap whose taste was reminiscent of red grapefruit and ginger, both of which came on stronger on the palate than they did on the nose

We all ordered different entrees and shared amongst ourselves, the best way to dine out. The salmon succotash was creamier than expected. The fish had a crispy skin that played well with the bite of the vegetables. Beans, corn, and peppers played together in the sauce upon which the fish sat, ensuring it stayed crispy. The roast pork belly was fatty, as it should be. Sweet on the top, it fell apart in the mouth. It was topped with pickled mustard seed, providing a sour punch to prepare for the next bite. Served aside a pool of green pea puree, which was a beautiful emerald green and a little more bitter than I prefer, a fresh counterpoint to the heavy meat.

I ordered the barramundi el papallote (pictured). This is a fancy way of saying that it was cooked by being wrapped in a baking bag/parchment paper. Asparagus, sundried tomatoes, yellow squash, and baby purple potatoes joined the fish in the wrapping. The baking bag was part of the plating, which would have received admonishment from Tom Callichio or any other Food Network judge; you don’t plate what you can’t eat. Despite this, the dish was wonderful. The fish fell apart on the fork, soft and sumptuous. The vegetables were al dente, and the slightly rehydrated sundried tomatoes added a complex aged sweetness. The mixed green salad with a light, acidic dressing served as a welcome repose from the rest of the dish.

The table shared a few desserts. A trio of local sorbets that brought more flavor than the fruit from which they were derived. A banana bread pudding that was soft, moist, dark, but was more at home in the fall, it had me wishing that the trickle of brandy sauce that topped it was a stream. Earl Grey crème brulee was the not as thick as I had expected. With a perfectly crunchy top, the flavor of the tea was a little lost in the cream.

The true cap to the meal was the jokes and laughter with which we departed the restaurant. It’s always good to see friends from out of town, and I sincerely hope we catch up again when they return.