Because when I think heroic women, I think sushi

Virago is defined as “a woman who demonstrates exemplary and heroic qualities.” How the M Street restaurant came by the name is beyond me. Back in Nashville, some workers and I stepped into the dimly lit, super-hip restaurant. The walls are lines with rocks, encased in a wire mesh and lit from below. Pseudo-techno music thumps through the restaurant, rebounding off the stark edges of furniture. The entire vibe is very nouveau, which also speaks to Virago’s food.

We started the meal with spicy tuna, mashed and shaped into a ball; it had the consistency of a mousse. The tuna topped crispy on the outside, gooey on the inside, rice balls that had been rolled in white and black sesame seeds. The real kicker of the dish was the watermelon poprocks that served as a condiment. Adding both a sweet and a…sparkle to the dish, it was as playful as it was delicious.

Mondays nights at Virago feature cocktails and rolls (over and above their regular happy hour) that are discounted. Many of the rolls have non-traditional flavor combinations. For example, the Ecuador roll features cilantro, jalapeno, mango, and chives. The sweet and hot play well against each other amidst a background of herb and ocean from the tuna and hamachi. The crazy monkey roll marries a number of fatty flavors, combining eel, avocado and cashews. Topped with mango vinaigrette and unagi sauce, the sweet and fat makes the roll almost feel like a dessert. In a similar vein of sweet and heavy, the Hawaii five-o roll has 12 different ingredients. Tropical flavors of mango, kiwi, coconut macadamia nut, and hearts of palm enwrap hamachi and escolar.

Not in the mood for fish, a coworker ordered the stone steak filet. Thin strips of raw beef are presented next to a black rock. Searing hot, it sits atop a mound of salt, flanked by dipping sauces of yuzu koshō vinaigrette and a bright orange, spicy peanut sauce. Diners cook their steak to the desired doneness, sizzling on the rock. It was served with a side of coconut rice, which was halfway between rice pudding and regular steamed rice in consistency. Lightly toasted coconut flakes adorned the top, and the long grained white rice was sticky not only with gluten, but also with coconut milk.

Once again, the M Street portfolio of restaurants does not disappoint. While I can’t speak to all of the food at all of the establishments, what I can guarantee is that you will feel hip to be cool when dining there, complimentary valet parking and all.