Husk is a Southern American restaurant situated at the top
of a hill in the Southern part of the Nashville. Overlooking the city, the
used-to-be home has been converted to a darling eating establishment, complete
with an open kitchen, basement bar, and garden. The elegance of Husk is
completed with dark, thick, old wood, complimented with lighter colored walls,
bright paintings, and water/cocktail glasses made from old wine bottles.
Our dinner began with two mocktails. A ginger beer enhanced
with mint and lime was both bracing and refreshing, while a tea infused with
grapefruit and lavender was sour yet calming. Our first course was a soft shell
crab, lightly dusted with flour before being pan fried. The crab was topped
with “embered corn,” which added smokiness and sweetness, marconi peppers,
which are like green bell peppers, but not as thick and much milder, added a herbaceous
note. The plate was finished with chive and coriander blossom, and plated with
a salsa verde. The flavors came together beautifully, each bringing out the
oceanic sweetness of the crab while standing on its own.
Our second course was a true Southern staple, shrimp and
grits (pictured). Buttery ground hominy served as the base of the concoction,
which was topped with perfectly cooked, halved and curled shrimp. Accompanying
this were sautéed mushrooms, finely diced crisped ham, scallion, and a sunny
side up egg. The entire bowl was showered in a black powder. The chef had taken
the shoots and greens of onions, cooked them to a dark char, pulverized them
into a dust, then liberally sprinkled the dish with it. The onion ash brought
smoky umami to the dish that was both welcome and unique.
The entrees that continued our meal were chicken and pork.
The chicken was served with a rhubarb-tomato conserve. Sweet, sour, red, and
sunshine were the first four words that came to mind. It was served next to a
cannel of “curds and whey.” Ricotta was made in house, then the whey was
incorporated back into the cheese and blended to the consistency of sour cream.
My pork was a shoulder, slitted on the edges and stuffed with bacon before
being cooked. Served atop a hominy and butter bean succotash, and a hominy
puree to keep everything in place. West African mustard onions in a light,
slightly sour, creamy sauce topped the pork. Each bite fell apart in my mouth
as I traded a bite of savory pork for sweet corn succotash.
The ambiance and the knowledgeable banter of our waiter helped
complete the meal, as did the wonderful company. Despite the oppressive humidity
of the day, the experience was very cool.
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