Monday, March 14, 2016

Graham’s Gastronomy – Cajun Whitefish

                Cajun spiced whitefish. That was the only direction I was given from London for the one complete meal I had time to make over the weekend. Able to use my poorly missed kitchen for only two days a week, my grocery list has become woefully truncated, and with my upcoming two week absence in the back of my mind, I endeavored to use anything I had already. My shortlist to use was: Apples, oranges, bean sprouts, cilantro, shallots, soba noodles, bosc pears, and hard cider. Like a slot machine, I kept shuffling through combinations; many being dismissed as clashes of flavors made themselves apparent (is there a way to put apples with cilantro, some kind of salsa perhaps…). It was a sunny day, unseasonably warm for March, so a run (literally) to Whole Foods would serve as my muse.
                No trip to Whole Foods is complete without a stop at the cheese department. A short conversation with the red-coated woman behind the counter brought to mind a poached pear dessert that could be modified to fit my ingredients. Hard cider would replace white wine, add honey and poach the pears. Toasted walnuts substitute pecans, adding crunch to the otherwise smooth texture and a nutty aroma, and filling the crevasse cut from the center of the fruit. Then, the cider, reduced to a syrup, melts the creamy yet mildly pungent gorgonzola placed in the middle.
                Back home, wedge of cheese in tow, I coat the fish liberally with seasonings and put it in a 350˚ toaster oven while I tackle the sides. I wanted to use the cilantro with the shallots, but the buckwheat of the soba didn’t seem to match with a traditional chimichurri, so instead I sautéed the shallots in bacon grease and added darker flavors like soy and balsamic to create a sauce in the food processor. Perhaps I didn’t add enough liquid, but the vegetative crunch of the herb held on and its freshness clashed with the almost fermented flavors in the rest of the sauce.
                Unsatisfied but not disheartened, I went back to the culinary drawing board. Back at Whole Foods, I stopped in to talk with the seafood department for ideas about side dishes. They suggested the heat of the Cajun seasoning could use a cooling component. Mixing green apple and bean sprouts, along with what was left of some shredded cabbage and plain yogurt, adding lemon pepper to brighten and spice, I created a white-washed slaw with a satisfying crunch. Sweet, tart, cream, and crunch all played their part, a welcome counterpoint to the pliant, Cajun kick from the fish.
                Cooking complete, London and I plopped onto my pleather couch and pulled up Netflix. Lights dimmed, but not enough to obscure the enjoyment of the food, the table made a scratching noise as we pulled it towards us, settling in for dinner and a movie, and a lazy Sunday evening.

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