Noshing Out – VOX

My travels to San Antonio kept me in Texas over the weekend, so I took the opportunity to check out Austin. Only a 1.5 hour drive North, it was an easy way to get to see more of the Lone Star State. Saturday evening, taking the suggestion of both a coworker and the concierge, I made my way downtown to check out the nightlife. My wanderings, (and a search on OpenTable), brought me to the South West part of town near The Alamo Cinema, to VOX Table for a late dinner. Being a party of one, the hostess asked if I would like to sit at the bar directly in front of the kitchen. I gratefully accepted.

                Expedited plates and their associated tickets were passed directly to my right. Forgoing the menu, I decided to order based on what I saw pass by, along with input and suggestions from my waiter. Every dish was artfully crafted prior to service, chef’s hands dipping into the mis en plas arrayed in front of them. My curiosity got the best of me as I inquired about this sauce and that garnish, learning that VOX had a bit of a flair for molecular gastronomy. My first dish was hamachi served on the tip of a pippete. Six were displayed on a block of wood cut specifically for the plating. Crunchy and slightly sweet tiny white orbs encrusted the raw cubes fish, while the pickled cucumber and tomato raisens added a secondary crunch. The acidic and tart coconut vinaigrette in the pipette had a slight creaminess that enveloped the fish and vegetables as each bite was quite literally, sucked down. (see 10 o clock on the plate)

                The colorful calamari linguini caught my eye and inspired my stomach. The hood of the squid was cut lengthwise and sautéed with tomato and a chorizo broth. The shallow bowl used for plating was first painted with a corn puree before the calamari was assembled on top. Garnished with watermelon radish and a crisp made from squid ink, the dish was as colorful as it was delicious. Squid was soft and pliant while the oil from the chorizo played into the corn puree, giving a spicy and smoky hint.

                With so many choices and delectable dishes passing by, my third choice was difficult. From consultation with the expediter, we determined that the newest menu item, the pork cheeks, was the best choice. Pork cheeks also make an appearance on another menu item, the tongue + check bun, but the preparation was completely different. In the bun, buttery pastry encircled the meat and a red wine jus. Complete with a horseradish aioli and topped with crispy leeks, it was a larger, creamier take on beef wellington. My order was the alternate choice, glazed pork cheeks with piquillo peppers, black eyed peas, and a sweet and sour au jus. The same cut tasted completely different, as the glazed cheeks had dark sweetness from the caramelization. The dark meat cut melted with the sauce, filling my mouth with umami flavors.

                Dessert was a flourless chocolate cake, but the excitement came from an orb of menthol liquor that sat atop. Mint and dark chocolate melded together as I punctured the pouch, the liquid cascading around the dense cake. Cocoa nibs brought a hint of bitterness and texture, adding crunch to the otherwise velvety smooth finish to a phenomenal meal.