That is the tagline of Bound’ry, one of the many restaurants
in the area surrounding Vanderbilt. A short walk away from many hotels on the
west side of Highway 40, it’s far enough away from traffic to be an easy
suggestion from the front desk. The interior is an eclectic set of rooms. The
left is the bar area, which swoops around in a long arc. The right has a
blazing wood fired oven prominent in the corner, where their hand tossed pizzas
are made. The deck has mini fire pits at each table, the flames exuding from a
basin filled with stones. The back room is a more tradition dining room, the
kitchen visible from most tables. The lighting is dark and the art is vibrant and
the dinner was about to start.
We begin with two shared appetizers. The pork belly came in
four thick cubes. Unlike other belly I’ve had, the layers of meat and fat did
not separate easily, and eat bite was better eaten as a whole. The sea salt
aioli and hot pepper jam added a nice kick, while the slaw of pea shoots and
shaved cabbage cleansed the palate. The other shared dish was the tuna two
ways. The seared half was flavored with Chinese five spice and sliced thin, the
meat slightly more purple than red. The other half was chopped up and flavored
with ginger and sake, the pieces of tuna falling in between sweet potato chips
and avocado. All of this sat atop basil painted cucumber.

The entrée was the highlight of the meal. Always a sucker
for novelty, I ordered the antelope. The loin came medium rare, just how I like
it seared black on the outside, the interior a purplish red. As often happens,
the game was very lean, and tasted meaty and clean, with only a slightly
metallic presence. Paired was an ice cream scoop dollop of white truffle scented
mash potato. Though delicious, the portion was a little small considering the $30
cost.
If you have to travel to work, and I often do, Nashville is
not a bad place to go. Restaurant options are numerous and on most occasions,
you can’t go wrong. Bound’ry is no exception.
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