Noshing Out – Burger Breakdown – West vs. South

                When contemplating the ultimate showdown of the fast food burger, a popular matchup is often posed between In-and-Out Burger, the California chain, and Shake Shack, the East coast sweetheart. Heated debates ensure over grinds, toppings, customizations, and other extras (In-and-Out will give you a hat for free if you ask). However, having spent a good deal of time in Texas, another chain entered the fray of the burger battle, Whataburger.

                This Texan-founded restaurant, its logo striped with orange and white, has the classic burger joint vibe. Employees race about in white, button-down t-shirts, managers have orange suspenders and different colored, full-length shirts. There is a persistent din of the fryalator behind the counter paired with the clicking noise of the soda dispenser filling another cup. What is oddly not present is the blurping sound of ketchup plopping into white paper cups. This is because Whataburger is known for its “gourmet ketchup,” which comes in individual containers rather than bladders.

The classic Whataburger itself is fairly large. About a centimeter thick and approximately four inches in diameter, the meat’s grind is actually fairly loose. There is certainly a smoky component, but no char. The burger is evenly cooked, and not inherently greasy. The potato bun has a hint of sweetness. Standard toppings also follow the classic recipe, iceberg lettuce is leafed, not chopped, the onions are thick and raw, tomatoes are sliced, and the cheese is yellow American. Admittedly, the flavors don’t blend as much, with some bites containing a nose-blasting amount of raw onion, best moderated with the spicy “gourmet” ketchup.

In the other corner of this burger bout, In-and-Out burger has an even more classic feel. White, yellow and red as primary colors, much of their packaging features bible verse references, a reflection of the Christian beliefs of the founders. Primarily located in Southern California, the chain is known for its very limited menu with nigh infinite customization. One can get a burger “animal style,” the mustard cooked onto the patty, with onions cooked or raw, “protein style,” nixing the bun in favor of iceberg lettuce, and as many additions of patties and cheese as you would like. The potatoes used for the fries are peeling and cut on-site, on demand, and their signature “spread” is pink and similar to thousand island dressing: a mixture of ketchup, mayonnaise, and sweet pickle relish.

As to the burger itself, the patties are smaller and smoother in the grind, the outer rim featuring a bit of char. The cheese firms quickly after its melted on the grill and a similarly sweetish bun is toasted on the inside, dressed with a generous amount of iceberg lettuce and tomato slices, and of course, spread. The sautéed onions are dark brown and chopped fine, adding an umami accent uncommon in fast food.

So who wins this burger bash? I’m not presumptuous enough to make that decision. Fries, shakes, atmosphere, availability, so much more goes into the holistic burger experience than what I’ve described here. What I can say is, they both beat McDonalds hands down (which is not saying much) and I still make a better burger at home (a high bar to surpass indeed).