Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Graham's Gastronomy - Personal Chef for the Week – Part 2

The next day brought us to Costco, where we procured a leg of lamb. Usually, my parents buy lamb chops, but in my opinion, the mini t-bones are more trouble than they are worth. After some butchering, we had about seven small steaks ready for the grill. I played around with the flavoring, making one standard steak seasoning, one greek (I may have cheated a bit on this one using a Greek seasoning mix and oregano), one rosemary and lemon, and one Moroccan, adding cinnamon, paprika, cumin, and mustard. The lamb could be dipped in a tzatziki sauce I made from Greek yogurt and cucumber, blended in the food processor with lemon, salt, pepper, onion and garlic power, and some fresh parsley. The lamb was paired with what I like to call “silver onions.” Sweet onions, preferably Vidalia, are peeled and cut into four sections. Place a small pat of butter in the center, along with coarse salt and ground pepper, then wrap in tin foil and twist the top. Place these on the grill as it is warming up. These will be the first on and last off, they can take a while. To round out the meal, I created a watermelon gazpacho. Chunks of watermelon went for a spin in the food processor, the soupy result poured into a large salad mixing bowl. Cucumber and sweet onion were given a similar treatment. I added white balsamic, lemon juice, salt and pepper, and a bit of ground mustard to the bowl and let the flavors mingle. There was some adjusting of spices, but the soup was served cold and topped with crumbled goat cheese, providing another slight tart flavor, but also sweetness and creaminess.

The next morning, I claimed one of those seven cuts for steak and eggs. Two sunny side up eggs ran their yolk all over the lamb. Pro tip: Don’t reheat the steak in the microwave, use the same pan you cooked your eggs, but get it hot first, add the steak and a tablespoon of water and cover. This prevents it from getting leathery and preserves the char from the sear.

Saturday night I made my signature dish, cioppino. There are a lot of similar, mixed seafood in a tomato-based broth dishes out there. Cioppino comes from an Italian word “to chop” and comes from the Italian fisherman community in California (despite its name, you will never find cioppino in Italy). It’s considered a “catch of the day” kind of soup. Bouillabaisse, the French version, is comparable, but is flavored with saffron and very like French cooking, cannot “technically” be made outside the province (in the same way Boudreaux or Port can’t). Seafood chowder is another analogous dish, but unlike former two, the crustaceans in chowder have had their shell removed. Finally, zuppo de pesce (Italian, literally “soup of fish,” this one you will find in Italy) is most like cioppino, especially in that there is no prescriptive recipe.

The fishmonger at the local grocer didn’t have mussels, so we substituted crawfish. We also procured clams, shrimp, bay scallops, and tilapia (though any whitefish would have done). Starting with sautéing onion and garlic in butter, I added the diced stewed tomatoes, white wine, lemon, and fresh parsley. The shrimp went first, as they had the longest cooking time. One by one the seafood dropped in, each adding their own dimension of flavor. A Caesar salad with a homemade dressing, a recipe my mother touts as the best she has ever had, a crisp pinot grigio, and warmed sourdough bread rounded out the meal. There were no leftovers.

Thank you mom and dad, for letting me have the run of the kitchen for the week. It was a great visit and I hope to coordinate cooking when I come home for Christmas.

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