Bienvenido espana. A trip that has been nearly a decade in planning and anticipation is finally on. Charlie, a friend of mine since elementary school, met me at the departure gate in JFK for the six hour, non stop flight. We arrived in the morning, dropped our bags at our hostel and hit the city.
Madrid has a vibe all its own, separate from other European cities. The aromas, the warmth, the feeling of energy and intent, followed by relaxation and repose, much like a flamenco dance. The Spanish love their pig. Everywhere there is cured hams, sausages, charcuterie. I'm not sure if the translation is right, but there are stores called The Museum of Ham. Walking into a market, I was stunned at the selection of meats and cheeses. Charlie speaks enough Spanish to help me navigate a tasting. Most of the Spanish cheeses are firm or semi firm(curado). In the spectrum of cheeses, they fall mostly on the milder end, but no less complex for it. The cheeses with age (viejo) had nutty and buttery flavors while the younger versions were lighter, creamier, and sometimes had floral notes. After trying a few, we made a selection and asked for a four euro slice. What we received would easily have cost $15 at Whole Foods.
Next to the cheese counter was the jamon. There are many variations and intricacies to these cured meats, mostly differentiated by what the pigs ate, length of preservation, fat content, and place of origin. Almost all the cuts are sliced to order, and those that aren't are in vacuum sealed bags. Again, after tasting a few versions, we purchased some Serrano ham and again, four euros worth produced easily triple the amount we would have received in the US. The meats themselves are salty and soft. Shaved paper thin, they melt in your mouth with porky goodness.
Our first night, we went to a local restaurant at the suggestion of Charlie's father, who has been to Spain many times. This small establishment is known for their steak, namely ox steak. My half kilo cut had a bulb of fat at one end and sizzled on the plate. The meat was medium rare, and the red center had a purple tint. The flavors were darker than beef with complex earthy notes. Paired with dinner was a pitcher of sangria. This recipe was sweeter with hints of plum.
Night two was a tapas night with a flamenco dance show. The tapas featured croquettes, fried crispy on the outside and whipped, creamy potatoes on the inside. There was smoked and grilled sausage, much like chorizo, with chunks of fat throughout. Small green peppers also made an appearance, tossed in olive oil and corse salt before being fire roasted, the mild heat and vegetable flavor brought to life from the fire.
On our way to the train station leaving for Barcelona, we stopped at San Gines, a shop famous for its chocolate and churros. Unlike hot chocolate in the US, the cups are small and extremely thick. Think whole milk saturated with powdered dark chocolate (note I am not saying a mix, this is the real deal). The churros were unadorned, much better to dip into the dense drink.
A three hour train ride brought us to Barcelona, but that is for the next post...
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