Monday, April 27, 2015

(Off) Street Tacos

Having help moving is near the top of the list of fringe benefits of having younger male friends. A dear friend of mine purchased a sofa and chair set, but was unable to move it on her own, so she enlisted the help of my roommate and I to load and unload the rented U-Haul. In most circumstances, compensation for helping someone move is pizza and beer, along with the promise of reciprocation. However, my friend and I are both foodies, and instead of a large meatlovers, we went to Bartaco in West Hartford center.

The interior of Bartaco is not unlike Chipotle (which happens to be across the street). Wood and metal, along with a slight industrial look is the vibe. On Saturday night, after about 7pm, the crowd starting picking up. Bartaco is easily identified as a locale to “meet people,” as the social lubrication was flowing, and the entire restaurant standing room only. Luckily, we had already gotten a table.
My cocktail was an interesting combination of resposado tequila, lime, muddled herbs, and a chorizo bitters. The cocktail was refreshing and light, yet had a smoky and meaty nose. Even the bartender cautioned that not everyone enjoyed it, but I found it pleasantly differentiated.

We ordered the chef’s tray. I should note that everything comes in small metal trays (jelly roll pans) with a layer of brown paper. Guacamole and tortillas (not chips) came first. The avocado was creamy and perfectly ripe, with just a hint of lime, salt, and cilantro. The three tableside hot sauces tasted equally fresh. The red having a warm chili flavor, the green a tart and slightly lime flavor, the orange bringing the heat and slight bitterness of habaneros.

We sampled a variety of tacos. Each about the size of the palm of your hand, so even light appetites could sample a few. The duck was crispy just slightly gamey (as duck should be). The dark meat was offset by the onion and cilantro, but only slightly, the duck spoke for itself. The baja fish was fried in a light batter, leaving the interior pliant and moist. The fish was laid on a cabbage slaw in the soft tortilla. Last, we tried the wild boar. Dark flavors of mole came through, creating more of a sauce than the duck had. Thick, smokey flavored oozed through each bite, both my friend and I agreeing that it was our favorite.

I have to give accolades to the servers. As a tapas-style restaurant, our courses came as they were ready, and any server passing by was eager to help. Despite the growing crowd, I never felt pressured to move on, order more, or get out. A great night to catch up with a great friend. I can’t wait to help her move again.

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