Tuesday, May 27, 2014

The Bountry of Baltimore


            Later last week, I traveled the two hours from Philadelphia to Baltimore. My hotel was in the inner harbor area, while the office was near Fell’s Point and Brewer’s hill, giving me easy access to a great variety of places to eat, both Baltimore staples and ethnic gems.

            My first gastronomic adventure was at Jack’s Bistro. Marketing itself as the first sous vide restaurant in Baltimore, the small, perhaps even cramped eatery creates some amazing food. We started at the bar for happy hour. The tatoo’d bartenders muddled strawberries, gin, a couple of other bottles that I couldn’t recognize, along with some bitters. Shaken and poured into a glass with a 2” square ice cube, the drink was both light and refreshing without being too sweet. The beef and grits appetizer was foodgasm number one of the evening. The grits are made with gruyere and the beef was soaked in a rich, decadent demi-glace. Our other appetizer, the fries, were finished with truffle oil and sea salt. The earthy scent of the truffles stuck on my pallet the rest of the night (foodgasm 2). The last item of note was the Malaysian laksa, not terribly different from a Vietnamese pho, the noodles dish had gulf shrimp, roasted chicken, and a fried egg. Cilantro and coconut milk made for a luscious, sweet, and sour combination (foodgasm number 3). The biggest problem at Jack’s is choosing among great dishes, rather than picking the best.

            The next night, my uncle and I ventured to Ten Ten. Tucked behind Fleet Street Kitchen, the unassuming restaurant has an eclectic, American feel. Perhaps it was because Memorial day was imminent, but the place was empty as we sat at the bar. The Brussel sprouts we order were chopped and roasted. Slightly charred, some pieces were crispy while others were perfectly al dente. The devilled eggs were less impressive, served with arugula and crispy pieces of bacon.

            Restaurant hopping, my uncle and I made our way to My Thai. The owner’s son recently returned from a trip to Thailand and was manning the grill bar. Sake ordered, we sat down to a selection of the most eclectic menu items. The silk worms were surprisingly good. I have eaten a fair share of bugs, but these smelled and tasted of roasted chestnuts on the outside, warm and crunchy. The inside was soft and not unlike the roasted chestnut of which they smelled, in texture. The tongue, of which I am usually a fan, was skewered and grilled, which made it a bit tough. The spicy, vinegar-based dipping sauce did pack a punch of flavor to the meaty mouthful. The pig brains that came next were soft. Think of a sausage, all the porky goodness, but with the texture of foie gras, fried, and topped with a sour Thai vegetable relish. Next came the chicken livers. Again, fried and soft, the livers tasted only lightly of iron, and melted in the mouth. Last came the lamb. Seared to a perfect medium rare with criss-crossed grill marks, the meat lollipops were seasoned simply and served with a light, vinegar and Thai herb sauce that accentuated the meaty treat.

            As ever, the digestive divergence would not have been nearly as fun had it not been for the witty rapport of my uncle, who was able to get an introduction to the Thai restaurant’s owner, wife, and wait staff. It’s good to be a regular.

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