Nosh Out – NYCFWF

For the past five years, in the middle of October, I hop on a bus and head to New York City for the annual Food Network Food and Wine Festival. A fundraiser to support No Child Hungry, local chefs, restaurants, wine distributors, along with Food Network Stars donate their time, skills, and food for the enormous four day affair. There are dozens of events from sit down dinners, seminars and instructional classes to walk around tastings and late night parties. My weekend started Friday night at the Blue Moon Burger Bash.

This event is iconic, hosted by Rachel Ray. Burgers of all grinds, meats, and toppings were paired with seasonal beers and wines. To be honest, after a while, the fat-ladden, rich ground meat became difficult to distinguish. What set burgers apart from one another was the toppings and pairings. My personal favorite was a dry aged burger with maple bacon and bone marrow béarnaise from Saxon + Parole. “I wanted something that was unctuous on the tongue, but wasn’t cheese.” said the Chef. The marrow was pureed in a food processor before adding the egg yolks, giving it a smooth texture. The maple bacon added a crunch (it was cooked crispy like it should) and a salty sweet component. The burger itself was actually playing second fiddle, providing a smoky and filling portion to the mouthful. Delicious.

Saturday was the biggest event by far, The Grand Tasting. The gastronomic extravaganza takes up all of Pier 92, with so many food, wine, and spirit samples, it would be almost impossible to try them all. Grocery stores, food purveyors, restaurants, and alcohol distributors all man tables from 11-6 on both Saturday and Sunday. With business cards, menus, coupons, and samples splayed out before them, it was a foodie’s dream come true. While the variety of things to try is unparralled, there are some unique bites that stand out, namely the “chicken oyster” from Earth at Hidden Pond. Chef Justin Walker took chicken breast and cooked it with black squid ink, creating a jet black bite swimming in a sauce made with buttermilk and isot chile. The inky morsel sat atop sliced green tomatoes and was topped with sesame seeds, the green, black, and white creating a perfect Halloween mouthful.

Food Network wasn’t the only channel represented. From the same network, Travel Channel brought their star power to bear at Top Dog, a hot dog competition at The Highline on little West 12^th. Andrew Zimmern and Adam Richman were present to chew through the variations on the New York icon. Celebrating 200 episodes of Bizarre Foods, Andrew made an impassioned speech about food bringing people together, creating a common thread. His words truly resonated with me as cuisine is often the way I bond with not only friends and family, but other people and other cultures as well. The dog that had its day was my personal favorite, a brat, cooked to the point of the casing just snapping open, topped with a spicy giardiniera relish, whole grain mustard, and served with a briny, quick cured pickle, it combined smoky, spicy, crunchy and sour with a slight Italian flare uncommon to a usual Sabarette hot dog stands.

Later that night was Pork and Pints, hosted by Robert Irvine, but check my YouTube Channel to see some of the best bites from that event.

Food From Afar - Inca Trail

Vacations are often to get away from it all, to rest, relax, and replenish the body and mind. My idea of a vacation is to load a backpack with approximately 40 pounds of gear and hike for four days along the same path the Incas used as part of their spiritual journey to Machu Picchu. The trek began at 9,200ft altitude at 88 km checkpoint. We started out around 7:30 in the morning, while the porters, carrying the food, cooking appliances, and tents, were still organizing their equipment. We soon learned that these unassuming farmers possessed serious athletic ability, as they would pass us from checkpoint to checkpoint, readying and taking down the campsites. Much of the trail remains original Incan construction, so in an effort to preserve it, only 500 people are allowed per day onto the trail, only 200 of which are tourists. Checkpoints along the way along with steep cliffs, cloud forest, and Andean Mountains prevent would-be trail crashers.

The majesty of the Andean Mountains is difficult to describe in words. Rather than being a single range, it looks like enormous mounds, covered in scrub, or jungle, or shear rock faces, were arranged at random next to each and seem to go on forever. The Inca trail itself describes a tiny line along their facades, passing at its zenith, Dead Woman’s Pass at 13,829 ft. a feat my group of six trekkers, two guides, and seven porters achieved on day two of the hike. Incan ruins periodically appeared from the forest or fog, displaying terraced gardens amongst stone and mortar construction. Just the thought of hauling that amount of materials up the slopes of these mountains was daunting.

After hours of breathtaking scenery, we came upon our campsites. The porters-turned-cooks had already constructed the eating tents and set the table. Dinners were always prefaced by tea time, where we sipped coca tea and munched on freshly made popcorn. Lunch or dinner, we were perpetually amazed at the quantity, plating, and quality of Peruvian food that was created from little more than a camp stove. Carrots, cauliflower, peas, onions, potatoes, corn, and pasta/rice were present at almost every meal. These were often presented in a variety of combinations, a fried rice with peas onions and carrots, a mashed potato topped with boiled corn, we even had a few “pizzas” made with a mashed, then fried potato base and topped with vegetables and queso andines.

Every meal was also accompanied by a protein. Peru is not known for its cuts of beef, and considering the conditions, I wasn’t expecting a seared rare fillet. That said, the chicken dishes were clean and flavorful, often using the carrots, onions, and celery along with tomato in different quantities to create a vegetable puree, sauce, or filling. We were happy to know that the enormous portion sizes were intentional, as the porters ate what we did not.

While dessert was often another round of coffee or tea before we crawled, exhausted, back into our tents, we were not without dessert. On two different evenings we enjoyed a warm, soft-set jello, the first flavored with a peach syrup, the second with purple corn, giving it an almost berry flavor. They say “hunger is the best spice,” but much of the food on the trail would be delicious anytime.

Our trek concluded on the fourth day, as we met the sunrise at the sun gate, overlooking Machu Picchu. Our group, along with the others who had made their way across the ancient path, shrugged off our bags for pictures of elated celebration at our achievement.

Food from Afar - Cusco

About an hour plane ride away, Cusco has a much more antique feel than Lima. Brick and tan buildings splay out via cobblestone streets from Plaza de Armas (the Main Square) into the hills. You can feel the altitude from the moment you step off the plane. Every hotel, tourist shop, and restaurant is offering coca tea. Made from the same plant from which the drug cocaine is derived, these legal and natural leaves are dropped into hot water for tea or steeped into candies to help alleviate altitude sickness. The flavor is mildly herbaceous with a hint of mint.

The sun rises early so near the equator, and with it, Peruvian women dressed in traditional garb start their day early, selling food and drink on the side of the streets. Hard boiled quail eggs are deshelled and dropped into a small plastic bag with a spoonful of aji, a soupy green sauce predominantly made with cilantro, onion, and jalepeno. Others haul five gallon buckets full of chicha, a lightly fermented corn beer. The cloudy, foamy, white/yellow beverage is periodically mixed by scooping and dumping with a measuring cup. For 1 sole (approx. $.33) you get a glass and a pour to be consumed right there. The flavor is slightly sweet and thick but not chewy. The flavor of the corn comes through a bit, and the slight fermentation (1-4% alcohol) gives just a tickle to the back of your throat. Variations on the beverage include using purple corn (chicha morada), making it sweeter and taste slightly of grape juice also providing a dark inky color, or adding strawberries to the original corn mash making it a cloudy pink and again, adding and berry sweetness.

While corn, potatoes, and grains (like quinoa) are the basis of the Peruvian diet, there are so many classic dishes to try, it’s a challenge to choose. At the suggestion of my hostel, one night I headed over to La Cusqueñita, a traditional Peruvian restaurant for dinner. Inclusive in their 50+ item buffet was also traditional music and dancing. I still don’t understand the mustachioed masks, but the food was delicious. We sampled everything including soups and salads alongside Lomo saltado (strips of beef sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and chunks of starchy potatoes) aji de gallina (chicken in a yellow curry sauce with onions), chicharones (fried pork belley), queso andines (Andean cheese, similar to feta in its texture and saltiness but not as crumbly and colored off-white, sold in 3kg wheels at the local market for 12 soles [$4]) and arroz con leche (rice pudding topped with a purple corn based syrup and fresh fruit).

One oddity that you will find on almost every menu in Cusco is guinea pig. Every place that offers it prepares it one of two ways, roasted or fried. The Peruvian delicacy is priced the same (50 soles or about  $17) at every restaurant and can be ordered head on or off. I was leaving the city on my way to the Sacred Valley to start my Inka Trail Trek (my next post) and discovered a tiny town called Lamay, known for its spit-roasted gunea pig. I took the collectivo (municipal bus) and when I saw the ladies waving the rodents on sticks, I flagged the driver to stop. I made my selection of guinea pig from the hearth and after some pictures, sat down to a hearty meal. When ordering guinea pig, you get the whole animal. The innards had been removed prior to roasting and were replaced with herbs and spices, also removed before plating. The skin was dark brown and blistered from the dry heat, and the body was cut into quarters and yes, the head was still on. The meat itself was soft and juicy, tasting somewhere between dark meat turkey and duck. Some complained that the dish is boney, but no more than one would expect from eating a mammal. Corn and potatoes were sides, along with a dish of aji. After the meal, I was served a shot of a clear, anise-flavored spirit as an aperitif.

Back on the collectivo, backpack in tow, I made my way to Ollantaytambo to begin my four day trek.

Food From Afar – Lima

As the sun fell, so did my plane descend. Through the clouds of the almost ever-present haze of Lima, the orange street light-dotted landscape of the capital city of Peru came into view. Bags acquired, I left the airport and was immediately accosted by a swarm of taxi drivers. In Peru, taxis are bargained for prior to the ride, getting in one anywhere in Lima is taking your life into your own hands. The lane dividers seem more like suggestions than rules, as my cab fought his way through the gaps in traffic. My hostel was in Miraflores, a district of high rise apartments boarding the ocean. On this Saturday evening, the nightlife was in full swing, bars and restaurants pumping both Spanish Salsa music and American Pop.

After checking in and getting a map, I hit the streets. Blocks away, I found John F. Kennedy Park, a greenspace famous for its stray cats. Food carts were scattered around the area, offering snacks and refreshments from ice cream pops, popcorn, to sleeves of nuts and/or fried corn, a ubiquitous snack in Peru. I capped off my night with the famous drink of Peru, Pisco.

When purchasing pisco from the store, the first question you will always be asked “is this for drinking or for mixing?” The spirit is made from a grapes and much like wine, the type of grape used is labeled on the bottle, with the exception of acholado, meaning it is a blend. The latter has a fruitier flavor and is the one you want if pisco sour is your destination. The classic drink is served in every bar, along with the country’s national beer, Cusquena and national soda, Inka Kola (A yellow soda with floral and pineapple flavors). Pisco sours are made easily enough, 2 parts pisco, 1 part fresh lime juice, 1 egg white, ½ simple syrup. Add ice and shake vigorously.

The next day was spent completely on foot. Walking the beaches, seeing the parasailers take off from the steep cliffs that overlooked the ocean. Exhaust and blaring car horns fight for domination of your senses. I found a hideaway from the din wandering to the local market for a tasting lunch. Lima has quite a gastronomic variety, including cooking classes and tours, but I prefer to be a little more self-directed, too bad I don’t speak Spanish. The two edible highlights of Lima have to be the fruit and the ceviche. First, the fruit. In the market, I made friends with the little old lady shop keepers by sampling and purchasing every fruit that I couldn’t put a name to, and then some. Check the Facebook for a video primer of Grecia walking me through the names of some of the oddities (in Spanish).

To the ceviche, as a coastal city, fresh fish (mostly trout) and a plethora of seafood like octopus, shrimp, and scallops come in every day. Just outside the market, locals sit around metal tables ordering the 6 sole (approx. $2) menu del dia. Just down the street, a cart is surrounded by Limans, slurping leche de tigre (tiger milk, the leftover sauce/soup from ceviche). The woman behind the cart was squeezing the small Peruvian limes into a metal mixing bowl, casually tossing in onions, finely chopped peppers and other juices. A quick stir and the citrus “cooked” seafood was scooped into a bowl and garnished with fried corn and seaweed. It was the best ceviche I have ever eaten, and it was $2.50, eaten standing up amidst the lunch rush. Welcome to Lima.

Graham’s Gastronomy – Unshepherded Pie

The sun sets sooner and the temperatures fall, the seasons shift from summer to autumn and with the weather, so does my palate change. Again, I found myself in the company of friends cooking dinner after work. Summer vegetation is giving way to fall foliage and what once would have seemed heavy and “stick to your gut” dish now seems warming and filling. When I was told I had, among other things, ground turkey and potatoes to work with, along with organic Applewood smoked bacon grease, a series of substitutions came to mind.

Ground turkey is leaner than beef. It’s not as flavorful, drier, and is no substitute in many situations. However, if the dish has enough other components, these undesirable attributes can be hidden amongst accoutrements. I personally prefer my shepherd’s pie with chunks of lamb, but even traditionally, beef is used. Peas as a traditional English addition, but those too were not present. Starting with an aromatic base of carrots, onion (in this case, they had half a purple onion to be used), garlic, and celery then adding the corn made for a plethora of vegetable colors, all sautéing with the smell of bacon.

Again, the traditional shepherd’s pie would have the meat and vegetables beneath a layer of mashed potatoes that would then be baked for a golden, brown, and delicious crust. There were three of us eating and we were hungry. So instead, we made three variations of plating. Using a red pepper as a garnish, we layered the meat, vegetables, and potatoes in different orders and sat down to a healthier, albeit non-traditional variation of a classic dish.

Unshepherded Pie

2 lbs ground turkey

1 can or 2 cobs of corn

½ purple onion, chopped

½ white onion chopped

2 cloves garlic

2 large carrots, cut into thin coins

3 ribs celery, chopped

1 T bacon grease (optional)

3 lbs potatoes, cleaned, skin on, chopped

1 T butter

½ C milk

Boil the potatoes in enough water to cover until fork tender. Add the butter and milk and mash, season with salt and pepper to taste.

In a large sautee pan, add the carrots with a few tablespoons of water and cover, when slightly tender, add the bacon grease (or whatever oil you like) both onions, garlic, corn, and celery. Sautee on med-hi until celery becomes soft and onions are translucent.

In a separate sautee pan, cook the ground turkey and flavor as you like. I added paprika, ground mustard, a little soy sauce, and pepper. Once browned, add to the vegetables and potatoes as you see fit to plate.